INFINITY TSS -SUB4000 – POWER AMP SCHEMATIC CIRCUIT

 

The main power transformer (toroid) part: 150-r1107010in the TSS-SUB4000 is not mounted in the amplifier inside the amp cover, but mounted in the cabinet in a separate location. To replace the power transformer, it is necessary to remove the woofer from the cabinet. The mounting bolt and transformer itself is mounted on an internal brace; both are accessible through the woofer opening.

Troubleshooting:

To keep the circuit “live” while exposing the amplifier components, the amplifier cannot completely be removed and powered up outside the cabinet due to the power connections to the externally mounted transformer. Instead, an alternate method is to leave the amp cover in place and remove the four Phillips screws holding the amp ass’y to the amp cover. Then the amplifier can be partially removed for access, while maintaining the power connections. Unplugging the LED connection (red/black wires) at the PCB plug will allow the amp to be removed even further.

INFINITY TSS -SUB4000

POWER AMP-SCHEMATIC

POWER AMP SCHEMATIC

POWER AMP PARTS

Specifications

Frequency Response 28Hz – 150Hz (–3dB) 24Hz – 180Hz (–6dB)

Maximum Amplifier Output 400 watts RMS (20Hz – 150Hz with no more than 0.1% THD)

Crossover Frequency 150Hz, 12dB/octave

Driver 12" (305mm) MMD®

Dimensions (H x W x D) 17-1/2" x 17-1/4" x 11-1/8" (445mm x 438mm x 283mm)

Weight 48 lb (21.8kg)

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EXPLODED VIEW & PARTS

EXPLODED VIEW

PARTS LIST

Whirlpool dishwasher, Laden, Bauknecht service manual error codes

Concerns dishwasher brands Whirlpool (AD series ..), Bauknecht (GS series ..), Laden (C series). Equipped with electronic and manufactured since 1998 (Chassis Dolphin and its evolution).

List of failure codes and related solutions ADG6949 and related models

These Whirlpool ADG 6949 Dishwasher Error Codes are given for guidance on the diagnosis. They can sometimes be more or less reliable depending on the actual device failure. They are displayed to the consumer in the event of default.

Trouble code F1 or 1 LED flashes: Defective temperature sensor (can prevent the unit from starting). Value: 58 kilo-ohms at 20 ° C, 12 kilo-ohms at 60 ° c.
Fault code F2 or two flashes of light: Leaking. Water is collected from the base of the appliance. Check all organs.
Error code F3 or 3 flashes of light: heating circuit. Check resistance, wiring, and failing PCB.
Fault code F4 or four flashes of light: The device does not empty. Check drain system, bilge pump, water level sensor.
Fault code F5 or 5 LED flashes: faulty pump cycling. Check propeller blocked winding system startup, and change the default pump.
Error Code F6 or 6 LED flashing: No water from entering the unit. Check valve, inlet water valve and pipe.
Fault code F7 or 7 LED flashing: No detection of water ingress into the unit. Check Points F6 and flowmeter wiring, and failing card.
Fault code F8 or 8 LED flashing: No information received water level. Verify the presence of water sensor
Error code F9 or 9 LED flashing: The water enters permanently into the machine. Check valve, flow meter, and if platinum.
Trouble code F0 or F10 or 10 LED flashing: Sensor detection of defective dirt. Default cycle is achieved by estimating the dishes are very dirty.
Fault code FA or 11 flashes of light: Optical presence of faulty water sensor. A check with the circuit board.
Fault code FB or 12 LED flashing: Water HS distributor. The water management system in the lower and upper arm is faulty. Check wiring, micro-motor, contact position, and perforated to incriminate default map disc.
Trouble code FC 13 or flashes of light: detection system defective automatic regeneration.
Trouble code 15 FE or flashes of light: the faulty memory card. Replace the card.

Stored in the device memory erase fault codes by a long press of 5 seconds start pause button. The device can then restart the cycle normally.

Testing Laptop CCFL Backlight And Inverter Board | Easy Way

We will be concentrating on LCD Inverter and CCFL bulb.
Laptop with black screen problem is commonly caused by:

1. a defective backlight, which is the cold cathode fluorescent lamp(CCFL) bulb
2. defective laptop’s inverter board
3. no video output going to the LCD Screen

It is not an easy job repairing laptops specially if we don’t have parts that we can use to replace to the parts we are suspecting to be the culprit. So now, we will going to try to make our own tools for testing a bad CCFL backlight of a laptop.

Tools Needed For this Project:

1. a 9volts battery

2. a 9v battery connector

3. a known good CCFL inverter from any laptop or LCD monitor.

Once you have the tools that we needed, we can continue to the next procedure.

About The Video Output:

If the laptop is equipped with an external monitor connector, we can easily check if the problem of having a black screen is caused by a faulty video card or GPU within the laptop or maybe the problem resides inside the LCD which is the inverter and CCFL bulb.

VGA Port on a Laptop

Connect an external monitor to the VGA Port of the laptop and check if there is a video output to the monitor.

There is some model of laptop that requires you to press a FN key plus a key with a picture of a monitor to switch between the LCD laptop to external monitor.

Then now, if you get a video on your external monitor then you now know there is a LCD screen, CCFL bulb and inverter board problem. If the external monitor doesn’t get any video at all, then suspect a video (GPU) or video cable problem.

Checking the CCFL Bulb:

On checking whether your CCFL bulb if it is still functional, we can use our own known good inverter to test the CCFL bulb is still working or in good condition.

Known Good Inverter

Using the Known Good Inverter:

Now, with our known good inverter, connect the CCFL bulb. And next, supplies a power to it using our 9v battery. A laptop inverter is usually powered by 12v and up but with our 9v battery, it is just enough to start the circuit of an inverter.

Connect the black probe from our battery source to the yellow wire, which is usually the 12v supply coming from laptop circuits, but to find more accurately the connection of the power source of an inverter, all you have to do is to find where is the connection of the SMD fuse in the circuit of the inverter. And the black probe to the ground screw hole of the inverter board.If our CCFL bulb lights up like in the picture below, then we now know that our CCFL bulb is good and working and now we can suspect that our inverter board is bad.

Checking Inverter:

Since that our known good inverter have able to light up the LCD Screen, and then connect the inverter of the laptop back to its position. Then we are going to conduct a test to it using the procedure we did to our known good inverter. And if it won’t lights up the CCFL bulb, then we can suspect that our inverter is defective and needs to be replaced to a new one or simply you can check it if the fuse is open. If it is open, try to make a jumper through the fuse using a thin wire to serves as our fuse, then redo the testing again with same procedure as we use on our known good inverter.

Checking the Power Supply Line:

If our known good inverter light up our CCFL bulb and the Laptop’s inverter also lights up using the 9v battery as its power source, then we are going to suspect the 12 volts power supply line from the laptop’s motherboard.

Let us get our multitester/multimeter and set it to DC Volts.

Plugged our AC Adapter and turn on our Laptop.

Put the black probe to the ground screw hole on the motherboard and the red probe to the yellow or the supply line and see if you have a voltage reading on that connection.

If you are can’t read any voltages from the connector then let us suspect a problem on the motherboard itself and this needs a lot of knowledge and experience on repairing Laptop.

At this point, we will have to bring the unit to a technician who have the knowledge of repairing a complicated problem of a Laptop.

How to troubleshoot an LCD monitor With external power supply problem

Fixing LCD screen power source pack is simpler as compared to the Cathode ray tube screen power source. This is modest and compressed and generally has just one outcome that is 12 volt and varies from 2 Amps to around 4 Amps. Several models works with 18 and 24 volts likewise. These days many LCD power-supplies are constructed in-to the main PCB board whilst in the past most LCD monitors worked with an external power supply unit.lcd power supply

Screens with separate power pack are simple to analyze, mainly because you can swap another operating power unit to know the cause of the issue. You may even utilize an exterior dc power source to switch on the LCD to verify if the power pack is defective.

If the symptoms of your monitor problem are low power, no power and power blink and you don’t possess an exterior dc power source to isolate the problem, then you may make use of this strategy to segregate the issue. Take a 12V light bulb and link it to the output of the monitor power pack. In case it lights normally, then your power pack is alright. In case it dimly lit or flickers the power pack have issue.

Why you have to utilize this process to check it? It is mainly because should there be parts shorted or leaking in the LCD primary board, it’ll impact the power source efficiency. From practical experience, the majority of the LCD power problems whether inside the power pack or built in to main board were because of the failing of electrolytic capacitors that will have a higher ESR because of heat within the primary and secondary area.

The power areas in several LCD screens are yet employing the pulse width modulation IC UC3842 or PWM IC. This kind of IC is very easy to find on the market in contrast to many power ICs that is challenging to obtain. Some Samsung LCD monitors are utilizing the TOP247F power IC that is quite simple to diagnose in case power breaks down within this product.

If you know how an LCD power supply works, then troubleshooting it is not that difficult. In the event you are uncertain of the way to diagnose power source, I encourage you to take a look at the SMPS Power Supply Troubleshooting Guide that explains all the powersupply stages and functions and how to diagnose and repair them.

A step by step guide about 200 Watt ATX PC Power Supply function

Here you have the schematic diagram of ATX PC power supply from DTK company. This power supply was designed for ATX and provides a power output of 200 Watt. The integrated circuit TL494 utilised in this design is a very common power circuit PC power supplies having about 200W output. The circuit operates with a symmetrical power stage (push-pull) with regulation of the output voltage, in the following we will understand how ATX power supply works.

The mains voltage passes through the input filter (C1, R1, T1, C4, T5) and then feeds the bridge rectifier (D21 to D24). When the input voltage is switched from 230V to 115V, the rectifier works as a voltage doubler. Varistors Z1 and Z2 protect against over voltage present on the input line. The thermistor NTCR1 limits the input current until capacitors C5 and C6 are charged. R2 and R3 allow the capacitors to discharge after disconnecting the power supply.

When connected to the sector, the capacitors C5 and C6, 470uf each, are all then charged together of approximately 300V. At this moment a secondary power supply, controlled by transistor Q12, starts and produces its output voltage. After the voltage regulator IC3 the +5 V goes into the motherboard. It is necessary to operation of the logic circuits and for "the standby of some functions."

Another voltage, non-stabilized, goes through diode D30 to power the circuit IC1 and the control transistors Q3 and Q4. When the main power supply works, then this voltage comes from the 12V line through the diode D.

ATX circuit diagram

Sleep mode (stand-by)

In standby mode, the principal main power supply is blocked by the positive voltage produced by the secondary power supply and present on the contact PS ON of the connector through resistor R23. Because of this voltage, the transistor Q10 will conduct and drive Q1 which applies the reference voltage of +5V from pin 14 "IC1" to pin 4 of "IC1" (Deadtime Control). The circuit is switched to the totally blocked state. Transistors Q3 and Q4 are both saturated (conductive) and short-circuit the auxiliary winding of the transformer T2. These short circuits prohibit the appearance of a voltage on the power circuit. By the voltage on pin 4, we can control the maximum pulse width at the output of IC1. A zero volt voltage produces the widest pulses and at +5 V pulses disappear.

Now we can explain the working of ATX power supply

If someone pushes the start button of the computer, the logic circuit of the motherboard puts the input pin PS-ON at ground (GND). The transistor Q10 will be block which has the effect of Q1 also to block. The capacitor C15 begins his charging through R15. The voltage on pin 4 "IC1" decreases gradually to zero by R17. This voltage permit generating pulses whose maximum width is continually increasing. The main power supply starts gently.

During normal regime, the power is controlled by "IC1". When the transistors Q1 and Q2 conducts, Q3 and Q4 are then blocked. When we want to drive the power transistors (Q1, Q2), then we must block the driver transistors (Q3, Q4). The current passes through R46, D14 and one winding of T2. This excitation current generates a voltage on the base of the power transistor and, due to the reactive positive current, the transistor is rapidly brought to saturation. When the pulse is over, the two driver transistors are then opened. The coupling reactive positive current disappears and produces an overvoltage on the excitation winding and blocks quickly the power transistor. Then the process is repeated with the second transistor. Transistors Q1 and Q2 alternately connect one end of the primary winding of T3 to the positive or negative voltage. The power goes from the emitter of Q1 (collector of Q2) through the third winding excitation transformer T2 and then through the primary winding of the main transformer T3 and the capacitor C7 to the virtual centre of the supply voltage.

ATX power supply Output voltages stabilization

The output voltages of +5 V and +12 V are measured by IC1 through R25 and R26. Other voltages are not stabilized and are determined by the windings and the diodes polarity. On the output, the filtering coil is necessary to remove high frequency interference.

This voltage is evaluated before the coil, by the pulse width and cycle time. On the output, after the rectifier diodes, a coil is common to all voltages. When we keep the direction of winding and the number of turns corresponding to output voltages, the coil will work as a transformer and we have a compensation for the irregular charges of the individual voltages.

In practice, voltage deviations of 10% of the value are specified. The reference of the 5V voltage of the internal regulator (pin 14 of "IC1") is applied, through the voltage divider R24/R19 to pin 2 of "IC1" which is the inverting input of error amplifier. The output voltages of the power supply are applied, through the voltage divider R25, R26/R20, R21, to the non inverting input of the error amplifier (pin 1 of "IC1"). R18 and C1 stabilize the regulator. The output voltage of the error amplifier is compared, through the capacitor C11, to the voltage of the ramp.

When the output voltage decreases, the voltage on the error amplifier then increases. The pulse excitation is longer, the power transistors Q1 and Q2 conduct longer, the width of the pulse before the output coil is larger and the output power increases. The second error amplifier is blocked by the voltage of the pin 15 of IC1.

PowerGood circuit

The motherboard needs the "PowerGood" signal. When all output voltages are stable, the PowerGood signal rises to +5V (logic). The PowerGood signal is usually connected to reset signal.

Stabilization of the +3.3V voltage

Look at the circuit connected to the +3.3V output. This is an additional stabilization for offset the loss of voltage in the cables. An auxiliary wire on the connector measures the 3.3V voltage on motherboard.

ATX Overvoltage circuit

This circuit is composed of Q5, Q6 and a number of discrete components. Like in LCD TV power supply, it monitors all output voltages. When limits are exceeded, the power is off.

For example, when I short-circuit by error -5V to +5 V, the positive voltage will then go, through D10, R28, D9, to the base of Q6. This transistor now conduct and drive Q5 which applies the reference voltage of +5V to the pin 14 "IC1", through diode D11, the pin 4 "IC1" (Deadtime Control signal) which blocks the power supply. It is then kept blocked by voltage, now present on the emitter of Q5, and applied to the base of Q6 passing through D12 and R30, until the high voltage input line is disconnected.

Several weeks back when on holiday, my friend's point and shoot Canon camera unexpectedly ceased functioning. The device would freeze practically instantly after switching it on, the retracting focus lens stuck on just what might be identified as its totally erect position and additionally a problem message shown causing the Canon digital camera to be useless.Canon camera repair Assuming this digital camera problem could be with whether the memory card or battery, each was substituted, however none repaired the Canon camera problem, and it had been finally changed by a different one. Although within the end of the week, after finding the stored/discarded equipment when spring cleanup, I chose to start a small precise examination, because there is practically nothing to lose other than time.

The push for repairing Canon digital camera is just curiosity, and additionally considering that a lot of on-line reviews regarding video camera repairs from an expert for "stuck lens" problems finish up charging almost or higher than the digital camera's value in most cases. Becoming pretty skilled with small disassembly, this is what I did to repair canon camera problem :

Initial thing you should do while Canon camera repair oneself would be to be certain the device is not actually under guarantee which enable it to be fixed without cost by a specialist. Otherwise, you then need to organize a work space:camera disassembling

  • Concentrated overhead and strong source of light.
  • flat, clean working surface free of clutter; you will be disassembling a digital device, therefore you do not require additional things in the way.
  • A little anti-static textile; that will not just enable you to clean off every unwanted dust, still enable you to avoid smaller sized pieces from running aside while put on top of desck.
  • Phillips #00 Screwdriver along with a Mini Torx Screwdriver Set.
  • Magnifier, in case required.
  • Compressed air.

Prior to disassembling and repair digital camera unit, take time to search on the internet for any camera repair videos relevant to your camera model when possible. It will offer you an understanding of what can be expected when disassembling the device. You additionally want to retain a notebook, mobile or tablet close by with guidelines/how to video tutorials available to analyze.
Whenever disassembling any canon digital camera, there may be a chance of harming the unit by static electricity, thus in addition you should eliminate every built-up static charge by contact a grounded metallic thing or utilizing a anti-static hand band.

Lets begin the Canon camera repair

This canon camera repair task had been very easy, simply needing to remove 6 #00 Phillips screws, that were set apart by dimension on an area where they may not move aside and off the desk. After taking away the front side of the case very softly, as not to break and harm it, I was capable to check the innards.

I discovered one of the connectors have loosened, as well as the fit of the top casing and the lens extension mechanism were not correctly in-line. digital camera problemTrying it with the case off and also connection tightened, the point and shoot Canon camera revealed itself to operate correctly okay once more, plus I could reassemble the digital camera with the housing in position.

All the things were excellent like new and today my friend has his preferred canon camera repaired and ready to employ any where and any time. My mainly regret is I did not think about attempting that before wasting cash to change the damaged camera weeks back!

A couple of extra idea whereas disassembling anything having greater than 3 elements:

  • get pictures or even take video clips of the operation

This can make it easier to determine what goes exactly where while placing anything back together.

  • work with a little compartment box to hold tiny screws together in corresponding groupings

It's frequently the situation gadgets happen to be constructed having a variety of screws that appear approximately identical, yet are usually somewhat bigger or small in dimensions.

Hope this tutorial was helpful, if you have any additional tips about canon camera repair i will be happy if you share them.

Regular computer power supply transforms the input 110V or 220V AC into different DC output voltages ideal for running the PC's motherboard along with other computer hardware connected to it and that can be identified in the ATX power supply pinout diagram. 24Pin connector

Power supplies are cited as working with a specific power output specified in Watts. The greater elements (CD/DVD drives, hard drives, fans.. ) you will have within your computer, the higher the power needed out of your power supply. It is possible to identify the power necessary for your pc utilizing a power supply calculator.

Computer power supply units or PSU provide the energy to the PC hardware through a variety of wires with connectors. The common criteria for different PSU form factors created for usage with personal computer systems are characterized in Intel's layout guides that can be regularly modified.

Computer ATX power supply Pinout diagram

At first a motherboard had been powered by just a single 20 pin connector. Recent models of ATX power connectors is actually a 24 pin connector made up of one 20 pins block that is joined to a 4 pins block as a way to respect backward compatibility with old 20 pin connectors motherboards.

ATX power connector version 2.0 ATX Pinout version 1.0
ATX power supply pinout atx pinout

ATX standards consists of not just PSU, but additionally interface to motherboard and case. Along with the older AT standard, ATX 2.0 offers one more +3.3V voltage line, a connector chain-lined with the 20pin plus a Power-ON line which enables computer software to shut off the Power Supply Unit. The ATX connector pin-out standard demands the PSU to provide 3 principal outputs:

  • +3. 3 V with tolerance of ±0. 165 V
  • +12V with tolerance of ±0. 60 V
  • +5 V with tolerance of ±0. 25 V

A small electric power -12V with tolerance of ±1. 2 V and a 5VSB standby voltage ±0. 25 V are likewise necessary. A voltage of -5V was initially needed as it has been delivered to the ISA bus, yet it became useless upon the elimination of the ISA bus within today's Computer systems and was eliminated on later editions of the ATX standard.

SATA Power Connector Pinout

A SATA 15 pin power supply connector is among the standard power connectors of peripherals in modern PC systems. That ATX power connector is now a conventional ATX connector for any SATA structured optical devices and HDDs.sata-power-cable
It’s wafer-based, 15-pin design. The relatively big amount of pins are utilized to deliver 3 distinct voltages 3.3 VDC, 5 VDC, and 12 VDC. Every single voltage is presented by 3 pins ganged together plus 5 pins to GND. That is due to the fact tiny pins are not able to offer enough current for certain equipment. A single pin out of each one of the 3 voltages is additionally employed for hotplugging. The identical physical connections are utilized in 2.5 and 3.5 inches laptop hard drives.

Following is the conventional 15 pin SATA power connector pinout as of Edition 2.2 in the ATX Standards.

SATA connector pinout

Pay attention: There furthermore exists a couple of not frequent SERIAL ATA power supply connectors: a 9 pin connector that provides +3. 3V and +5V known as micro connector and also a 6 pin connector that provides +5V known as slimline connector. The connector pinout tables for these connectors change from the one presented here.

Pay attention: In case you are employing that pinout table to check your ATX power supply voltages, remember that the voltages need to be in ATX given tolerances.

 
 
 
Signal Pin
+3.3V

1

+3.3V

2

+3.3V

3

GND  4
GND

 5

GND

 6

+5V 7
+5V 8
+5V 9
GND  10
Optional  11
GND  12
+12V 13
+12V 14
+12V 15

Computer power supply tips:

In the mother board power connector, the pin number 12 may be Brown (not Blue) in some power supply connectors, pin 8 might be White (not Gray) and pin 18 can also be Blue (not White), Furthermore, certain ATX power supply pinout do not respect wires color coding.

When power supply switch is turned on then pin 14 goes from 0V to 3. 7V and the standby Pin 9 goes from 0V to 5V.

The Pin called PS_ON within the connector pin-out is active by pushing and releasing the start key when the power supply is at standby.

Shorting the connector pin 14 (/PS_ON) to GND (COM) causes power supply to switch ON and PWR_OK to change to +5V, this is very helpful for PSU troubleshooting.

Dealing with Difficulties And Malfunction in Switch Mode Power Supply

The power supply repair is probably the most difficult tasks for any electronic repairer and when you've mastered the circuit and maintenance methodology, to troubleshoot different kinds of circuit like the vertical, colour, sound, high voltage or anything else is going to be quicker. When you known exactly how switch mode power supplies or SMPS operate, you will be prepared to fix every power supply issues in all sorts of apparatus. Essentially, each of the power supply functions tend to be nearly identical that is to provide output voltages for diverse secondary circuits. Knowing the way a power supply operate you'll know the rest of it.

Power supply problems can occur within the primary and also secondary section. Also in case there are certain troubles within the furthest section of every apparatus circuit like a shorted transistor or IC in a Monitor color circuit board, the SMPS power supply wouldn't function or simply blink. You can find several strategies to troubleshoot power supply, I am going to show you one of my methods on how to fix smps.

Each time a power supply delivered for repair regardless if it's a PC Monitor power supply or ATX power supply for certain i will check the power supply prior to open the casing. SMPS power supply problems are generally classified into no power, reduced output power, higher output voltage, power supply cut-off just after occasionally or as soon as turn on, power blink.

No matter what the troubles can be, I'm going to work with a typical technique strategy to check that.

- Verify the on/off button, fuse and discharge the big filtering capacitor Burnt Fuse
- In case the fuse burnt into black colour then assume serious short circuit within the power supply area. This may be a shorted  power ic, a short circuit in the power transistor or even a shorted  bridge rectifier. Do not under guess that a shorted primary winding in the switching power transformer may well happen. In the event the fuse is simply a little torn, could be the fuse spoilt on it's own considering that fuse have life expectancy as well. Usually, changing just the fuse can fix the no power problems.

- Be certain every secondary diodes are not damaged. It's possible to whether desolder one of the diodes lead in order to appropriately test it or you can utilize the flyback tester as explained in an other article (use the search box to find it).

- Verify the flyback transformer, HOT or horizontal output transistor, B+ and FET transistor if you are fixing a PC Monitor. Whenever, in case just one of such electronic components have failure, it can influence the power supply capabilities.

- Look at every electrolytic capacitor using ESR tester on the primary and secondary area

- If you find electrolytic capacitor malfunction within the SMPS power supply, this will cause it to blink, produced low output or totally no power at all!

- Check the primary winding of switch mode power transformer utilizing a flyback tester. Check additionally the flyback winding, b+ coil and horizontal yoke coil in cases where you are fixing TV or monitor. One shorted coil of these can result in power to turn off, blink, as well as no power at all.

Assuming you have verified that secondary part of power supply elements is operating then what you have to do is to desolder every electronic element from the primary part and examine each of the components in it. That is where your true troubleshooting skills is required. Knowing and understanding how to check common electronic parts is essential if you don't you will end up experiencing problems in locating power supply faults. For anyone who is new in such a electronic repair line, I extremely suggest that you look at each element inside the power supply circuit board and when you have hold of it, you may then identify problem through voltage tests or distinguish trouble by area.

Browse all my posts about the way to test basic electronic components using multimeter and other circuit testing tips.
Primary side of switch mode power supply typically includes around 20 to 30 components that will require under 15 minutes to check them all.
Frequently you will find multiple faulty components so you need to replace all of them or the power supply problem will not be solved.

After getting finished the whole parts check and already change the required components, you need to switch on the power supply using a 100 watt light bulb linked over the fuse holder.Bulb Test

In case the lamp lights highly bright and won't turn off even after minutes subsequently you may still have problems within the power supply. In cases where the bulb comes dim or switch off, you understand that the shorts was taken care so you currently may turn on the power supply with confidence and would not blow the fuse once more.

In order to become a professional in power supply repair, you must study, practice, and completely understand how basic electronic parts and power supply function. Having all those information in your head and hands, I think you will encounter no power supply issues that are very hard for you to fix. Good luck to you.

There are some basic troubleshooting steps that you, as an electronic repairer, should pass throw to success any power supply repair or any other type of electronics devices.

Define

The first basic troubleshooting step is to look at the symptom carefully and determine what circuits could be causing the failure. Use your senses Sight, Smell, Touch and Hearing . Look for burned parts and check for possible overheated components. troubleshooting steps Capacitors will sometimes leak dielectric material and give off a distinct odor. Frequency of power supplies will change with the load, or listen for relay closing etc. Observation of the front Power LED may give some clues.

Localize

After carefully checking the symptom and determining the circuits to be checked and after giving a thorough examination using your senses the first check should always be the DC Supply Voltages to those circuits under test. Always confirm the supplies are not only the proper level but be sure they are noise free. If the supplies are missing check the resistance for possible short circuits.

Isolate

To further isolate the failure, check for the proper waveforms with the Oscilloscope to make a final determination of the failure. Look for correct Amplitude Phasing and Timing of the signals also check for the proper Duty Cycle of the signals. Sometimes “glitches” or “road bumps” will be an indication of an imminent failure.

Correct

The final basic troubleshooting step is to correct the problem. Be careful of ESD and make sure to check the DC Supplies for proper levels. Make all necessary adjustments and lastly always perform a Safety AC Leakage Test before returning the product back to the Customer.

Use this power supply calculator to determine wattage for your PC

In order to prevent various PC problems such as instability of operating system, reset and shutdown resulting from energy-not insufficient power supply, It is advisable to utilize  PSUCalc power supply calculator to determine the ATX power supply which ideal fit with the requirements of your computer. The outcome is a suggested figure applied through the equipment you select, and you ought to purchase a PC power supply having greater wattage. power supply calculator
The wattages displayed will be maximum peak wattage per element. The total quantity that psu wattage calculator results is about all components working at optimum usage. You must keep in mind that amount will not get attained within normal functioning. But, I believe that psu calculator offer you an improved idea of the level of power your system requires.
Of course – in terms of electric power, getting additional wattage for a computer power supply is certainly not a negative factor!

What is PSUCalc wattage calculator?

PSU Calculator is known as an application designed by James and Michael, this new computer power supply calculator is made by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. It can  estimate the wattage for your personal pc power supply, supplying you with a rough prospect of things to be searching for. Additionally, it suggests power supplies within the wattage range.
With the most precise results, simplest to utilize user interface, as well as integrated power supply recommendations, PSUCalc is the greatest solution to calculate what power supply is correct for your personal pc. It's at present offered as a downloadable Microsoft Windows application. Google android edition, iOS and internet based versions will also be developed.

A few factors associated with PSUCalc :

This power supply wattage calculator presents some extreme features

  • Until 2 GPUs on free version and 4 GPUs with the Professional edition
  • Updated GPU and CPU listings
  • Estimations regarding overvolting and overclocking
  • Estimations meant for operating distributed computing projects
  • This power supply calculator will suggest PSU's

Additionally, another essential aspect when buying a pc power supply is the amperage within the +12V line. A great power supply will present a beefy +12V line (18A and greater), or maybe even double +12V line, like Antec do within its TruePower collection, this will eliminate many power supply problems that can face your computer. Furthermore, take care there are various 'imposter' power supplies available on the market at this time. We have noticed power supplies defined as 500 watt, while these are really just 250 watts. Generally there are 3 tips on how to show if the power supply is labelled properly :

  1. Verify the amperage within the +12V line.
  2. Buy a brand-named power supply. You will find several knock-off supplies on the market. Start a small researching about the manufacturer. The majority of imitation providers do not have online store or a extremely badly designed web site.
  3. Verify the purchase value. In case it says being 500 watts, however just costs $30, this must throw up all sorts of red flags for you. A real 500W power supply will surely cost around $90 and $140.

Please note: The designers of the software will not be responsible for computer problems resulting from use or improper use of the application or its recommendation. Every wattage results provided are estimated suggestions and aren't meant to be ideal, nor essentially a measure of true power usage. That  power supply calculator tool is created to assist fans, not being depended on entirely.

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